HALAMAN SAMPULKontributor Naskah:Sri Prihati, S.PdPenelaah:Bintang Elly Simanjuntak, MADASARTEKNOLOGIMENJAHIT IiiDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)Teknik Menjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IHALAMANFRANCISHak Cipta © 2013 pada Kementerian Pendidikan dan KebudayaanDilindungi Undang-UndangDisklaimer:Buku ini merupakan buku siswa yang dipersiapkan Pemerintah dalamrangka implementasi Kurikulum 2013.Buku siswa ini disusun dan ditelaah olehberbagai pihak di bawah koordinasi Kementerian Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan,dan dipergunakan dalam tahap awal penerapan Kurikulum 2013. Buku inimerupakan “dokumen hidup” yang senantiasa diperbaiki, diperbaharui, dandimutakhirkan sesuai dengan dinamika kebutuhan dan perubahan zaman.Masukan dari berbagai kalangan diharapkan dapat meningkatkan kualitas bukuini.Kontributor Naskah:Sri Prihati, S.PdPenelaah:Bintang Elly Simanjuntak, MADesktop Publisher:TimCetakan Ke-1, 2013Disusun dengan hurufarialMILIK NEGARATIDAK DIPERDAGANGKANiiiDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)TeknikMenjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IKATA PENGANTARKurikulum 2013 dirancang untuk memperkuat kompetensi siswa dari sisi sikap,pengetahuan dan keterampilan secara utuh. Keutuhan tersebut menjadi dasardalam perumusan kompetensidasar tiap mata pelajaran mencakup kompetensidasar kelompok sikap, kompetensi dasar kelompok pengetahuan, dan kompetensidasar kelompok keterampilan. Semua mata pelajaran dirancang mengikutirumusan tersebut.Pembelajaran kelas X jenjang Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan yang disajikandalam buku ini juga tunduk pada ketentuan tersebut. Buku siswa ini diberisi materipembelajaran yang membekali peserta didik dengan pengetahuan, keterampilandalam menyajikan pengetahuan yang dikuasai secara kongkrit dan abstrak, dansikap sebagai makhluk yang mensyukuri anugerah alam semesta yangdikaruniakan kepadanya melalui pemanfaatan yang bertanggung jawab.Buku ini menjabarkan usaha minimal yang harus dilakukan siswa untuk mencapaikompetensi yang diharuskan. Sesuai dengan pendekatan yang digunakan dalamkurikulum 2013, siswa diberanikan untuk mencari dari sumber belajar lain yangtersedia dan terbentang luas di sekitarnya. Peran guru sangat penting untukmeningkatkan dan menyesuaikan daya serap siswa dengan ketersediaankegiatan buku ini. Guru dapat memperkayanya dengan kreasi dalam bentukkegiatan-kegiatan lain yang sesuai dan relevan yang bersumber dari lingkungansosial dan alam.Buku ini sangat terbuka dan terus dilakukan perbaikan dan penyempurnaan.Untuk itu, kamimengundang para pembaca memberikan kritik, saran, danmasukan untuk perbaikan dan penyempurnaan. Atas kontribusi tersebut, kamiucapkan terima kasih. Mudah-mudahan kita dapat memberikan yang terbaik bagikemajuan dunia pendidikan dalam rangka mempersiapkangenerasi seratus tahunIndonesia Merdeka (2045).Desember 2013PenyusunivDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)Teknik Menjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IDAFTAR ISIHalamanHALAMAN SAMPUL.............................................................................................iHALAMAN FRANCIS...........................................................................................iiKATA PENGANTAR...........................................................................................iiiDAFTAR ISI........................................................................................................ivDAFTARGAMBAR............................................................................................viiPETA KEDUDUKANBAHAN AJAR...................................................................xiiGLOSARIUM....................................................................................................xiiiBAB IPENDAHULUAN........................................................................................1A.Deskripsi...................................................................................................1B.Prasyarat..................................................................................................2C.PetunjukPenggunaan Bahan Ajar............................................................2D.Tujuan Akhir.............................................................................................3E.Kompetensi Inti dan Kompetensi Dasar....................................................3F.Cek Kemampuan Awal.............................................................................4BAB IIPEMBELAJARAN.....................................................................................6A.Deskripsi...................................................................................................6B.Kegiatan Belajar.......................................................................................7Kegiatan Belajar 1Keselamatan dan Kesehatan Kerja (K3).............................7a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran.................................................................7b.Uraian Materi............................................................................................7c.Rangkuman............................................................................................23d.Tugas.....................................................................................................23e.Tes Formatif...........................................................................................24f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif..................................................................24g.Lembar Kerja..........................................................................................25Kegiatan Belajar2Pengelolaan Limbah.........................................................26a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran...............................................................26b.Uraian Materi..........................................................................................26c.Rangkuman............................................................................................47d.Tugas.....................................................................................................49e.Tes Formatif...........................................................................................49f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif..................................................................49g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik....................................................................52Kegiatan Belajar3Alat Jahit..........................................................................53a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran...............................................................53b.Uraian Materi..........................................................................................53c.Rangkuman............................................................................................77d.Tugas.....................................................................................................78e.Tes Formatif...........................................................................................78f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif Alat Jahit..................................................78vDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)TeknikMenjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit Ig.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik....................................................................79Kegiatan Belajar 4Jenis-jenis Mesin Jahit dan Mesin Penyelesaian..............80a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran...............................................................80b.Uraian Materi..........................................................................................80c.Rangkuman............................................................................................89d.Tugas.....................................................................................................89e.Tes Formatif...........................................................................................89f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif..................................................................90g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik....................................................................91Kegiatan Belajar 5 Mesin Jahit Manual..........................................................92a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran...............................................................92b.Uraian Materi..........................................................................................92c.Rangkuman..........................................................................................111d.Tugas...................................................................................................111e.Tes Formatif.........................................................................................112f.Jawaban Tes Formatif..........................................................................112g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik..................................................................113Kegiatan Belajar 6Mesin Jahit Industri (High Speed)...................................115a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran.............................................................115b.Uraian Materi........................................................................................116c.Rangkuman..........................................................................................132d.Tugas...................................................................................................133e.Tes Formatif.........................................................................................133f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif................................................................134g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik..................................................................134Kegiatan Belajar 7Alat Bantu (attachment) Mesin Jahit Manual dan Industri138a.Tujuan Pembelajaran............................................................................138b.Uraian Materi........................................................................................139c.Rangkuman..........................................................................................153d.Tugas...................................................................................................154e.Tes Formatif.........................................................................................155f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif................................................................157g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik..................................................................157Kegiatan Belajar 8Mesin Penyelesaian.......................................................159a.Tujuan Pembelajaran............................................................................159b.Uraian Materi........................................................................................159c.Rangkuman..........................................................................................167d.Tugas...................................................................................................168e.Tes Formatif.........................................................................................168f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif................................................................168g.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik..................................................................169Kegiatan Belajar 9Standar Mutu Jahitan.....................................................171a.Tujuan Kegiatan Pembelajaran.............................................................171b.Uraian Materi........................................................................................171c.Rangkuman..........................................................................................192d.Tugas...................................................................................................193e.Tes Formatif.........................................................................................194f.Kunci Jawaban Tes Formatif................................................................194viDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)Teknik Menjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit Ig.Lembar Kerja Peserta Didik..................................................................195BAB III EVALUASI...........................................................................................195A.Attitude Skills........................................................................................195B.Knowledge Skills..................................................................................195C.Psikomotor Skills..................................................................................201D.Produk/benda kerja..............................................................................202E.Batasan waktu sesuai yang telah ditetapkan........................................204F.Kunci Jawaban.....................................................................................205DAFTAR PUSTAKA.........................................................................................209viiDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)TeknikMenjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IDAFTARGAMBARHalamanGambar 1.1Pemakaian alat pelindung diri..........................................................10Gambar 1.2Pemakaian masker hidung dan tutup kepaladi bagiansewing.........10Gambar 1.3Utamakan Keselamatan Kerja..........................................................11Gambar 1.4Alat pemadam kebakaran.................................................................13Gambar 1.5Kotak dan perlengkapan PPPK (P3K)..............................................13Gambar 1.6Latihan Pemadaman Kebakaran......................................................14Gambar 1.7Logo K3............................................................................................17Gambar 1.8Ilustrasi aspek-aspek K3 di ruang.praktek busana............................18Gambar 1.9Cara memegangstecker..................................................................19Gambar 1.10PPPK (P3K)...................................................................................20Gambar 1.11Poster K3.......................................................................................22Gambar 2.1Pencemaran sungai.........................................................................27Gambar 2.2Limbah gas.......................................................................................27Gambar2.3Sumber penghasil limbah.................................................................28Gambar 2.4Pengolahanlimbahcair....................................................................33Gambar 2.5Unitpengolahanlimbah....................................................................39Gambar 2.6Contoh air baku sampaidengan air hasil olahan..............................40Gambar 2.7Pakaian dari perca kain....................................................................42Gambar 2.8Lenan dan aksesori dari perca kain..................................................43Gambar 2.9Dompet/tas kecil...............................................................................43Gambar 2.10Keset perca kain............................................................................43Gambar 2.11Gantungan kunci dari perca kain....................................................44Gambar 2.12Bahan-bahan pembuat gantungan kunci........................................44Gambar 2.13Alat jahit.........................................................................................45Gambar 2.14Pola karton.....................................................................................45Gambar 2.15Pola kain dan karton......................................................................46Gambar 2.16Jarum tangan.................................................................................46Gambar 2.17Gantungan kunci siap pakai...........................................................47Gambar 3.1Mesin jahit manualdengan penggerak tangan.................................54Gambar 3.2Mesin manual dengan pedal kaki.....................................................54Gambar 3.3M. Jahit SemiOtomatis....................................................................55Gambar 3.4Cam (pola hias) M. Jahit...................................................................55Gambar 3.5Pemasangan cam (pola hias) pada mesin........................................55Gambar 3.6Mesin jahit otomatis dengan tombol (variasi hiasan)........................56Gambar 3.7Mesin jahithigh speed......................................................................57Gambar 3. 8Pita ukur/metlyn..............................................................................58Gambar 3.9Pensildanpulpen.............................................................................59Gambar 3.10Skala..............................................................................................59Gambar 3.11Buku kostum (Costum Book)..........................................................60Gambar 3.12Penggaris pembentuk....................................................................60viiiDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)Teknik Menjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IGambar 3.13Pensil merah biru...........................................................................61Gambar 3.14Kertas koran...................................................................................61Gambar 3.15Kertas doorslag..............................................................................62Gambar 3.16Boneka jahit...................................................................................62Gambar 3.17Kapur dan pensil jahit.....................................................................63Gambar 3.18Reder polos....................................................................................63Gambar 3.19Rader tumpul..................................................................................64Gambar 3.20Rader bergerigi...............................................................................64Gambar 3.21Rader beroda kembar.....................................................................64Gambar 3.22Karbon jahit....................................................................................65Gambar 3.23Gunting Kain..................................................................................65Gambar 3.24Gunting benang (a)........................................................................66Gambar 3.25gunting benang (b).........................................................................66Gambar 3.26Gunting Zig-zag..............................................................................66Gambar 3.27Gunting kertas................................................................................67Gambar 3.28Spul (spool)....................................................................................67Gambar 3.29Sekoci............................................................................................68Gambar 3.30Sepatu mesin jahit biasa................................................................68Gambar 3.31Sepatu resleting.............................................................................69Gambar 3.32Sepatu resleting Jepang.................................................................69Gambar 3.33Sepatu zig-zag...............................................................................70Gambar 3.34Jarum tisik......................................................................................70Gambar 3.35Jarum strimin..................................................................................71Gambar 3.36Jarum tangan biasa........................................................................71Gambar 3.37Berbagai macam bentuk jarum penttul...........................................72Gambar 3.38Jarum mesin manual......................................................................72Gambar 3.39Jarum mesin industri......................................................................72Gambar 3.40Jarum Mesin Obras........................................................................73Gambar 3.41Jarum kelim....................................................................................73Gambar 3.42Jarum kembar................................................................................73Gambar 3.43Bidal/tudung jari..............................................................................74Gambar 3.44Pendedel benang...........................................................................74Gambar 3.45Alat pemasuk benang/mata nenek.................................................74Gambar 3.46Macam-macam setrika...................................................................75Gambar 3.47Alat pressing posisi tertutup...........................................................75Gambar 3.48Alat pressing posisi terbuka............................................................75Gambar 3.49Papan setrika.................................................................................76Gambar 3.50Macam-macam Bantalan setrika....................................................76Gambar 4.1Mesin high speed jarum 1................................................................81Gambar 4.2Mesin Jahit Lockstitch......................................................................82Gambar 4.3Mesin High speed 2 jarum................................................................83Gambar 4.4MesinJahitLockstitchdenganPemotongBenangOtomatisdanPendeteksiTepi...............................................................................84Gambar 4.5MesinJahitPasangBanPinggang...................................................84Gambar 4.6Mesin Bordir.....................................................................................85Gambar 4.7Mesin obras (Overlock Machine)......................................................86Gambar 4.8Mesin Lubang Kancing.....................................................................87ixDirektorat Pembinaan SMK (2013)TeknikMenjahit IDasar TeknologiMenjahit IGambar 4.9Mesin Jahit pasang kancing.............................................................87Gambar 4.10Setikandarimesinlubangkancingdanpasangkancing................88Gambar 4.11MesinNeci.....................................................................................88Gambar 5.1Mesin jahit manual...........................................................................92Gambar 5.2Mesin jahit tangan............................................................................93Gambar 5.3Mesin manual dengan pedal............................................................93Gambar 5.4Mesin jahit manual dengan penggerak dinamo listrik.......................94Gambar 5.5Mesin jahit manual bagian meja.......................................................94Gambar 5.6Mesin jahit manual bagian kaki.........................................................95Gambar 5.7Bagian-bagian badan mesin jahit manual.........................................96Gambar 5.8a,b,c Cara membuka rumah mesinjahit manual...............................98Gambar 5.9Cara mengisi benang pada spul/kumparan......................................99Gambar 5.10Cara memasukkan spul (kumparan) ke dalamsekoci...................100Gambar 5.11Pemasangan jarum padamesin jahit............................................101Gambar 5.12Pemasangan benang bagian atas................................................102Gambar 5.13Mengendurkan dan mengencangkan sekoci.............................103Gambar 5.14Menutup pelat penutup sekoci......................................................103Gambar 5.15Penarikan benang bawah.............................................................104Gambar 5.16Mengatur tegangan benang.........................................................105Gambar 5.17Mengatur tegangan benang.........................................................106Gambar 5.18Cara mengatur jarak setikan.........................................................107Gambar 5.19Setikan penguat pada awal jahitan...............................................108Gambar5.20Setikan penguat pada akhir jahitan..............................................109Gambar 5.21Menjahit lengkung........................................................................110Gambar 5.22Menjahit siku................................................................................110Gambar 6.1Mesin jahit industri (high speed).....................................................115Gambar 6.2Meja mesin industri dan kelengkapannya.......................................116Gambar 6.3Badan dan kelengkapan Mesin Jahit High Speed..........................117Gambar 6.4Posisi kaki ketika menjahit..............................................................118Gambar 6.5Posisi control yang benar...............................................................119Gambar 6.6Bagian-bagian jarum......................................................................121Gambar 6.7Pemasangan jarum mesin industri................................................121Gambar 6.8Bagian-bagianpenggulungbenang................................................122Gambar 6.9Caramenggulungbenang..............................................................123Gambar 6.10Bentuk penggulungan benang......................................................124Gambar 6.11Memasukkan spul ke dalam sekoci..............................................124Gambar 6.12Sekoci (Bobin case).....................................................................125Gambar 6.13Memasukkan sekoci ke dalam rumah sekoci................................125Gambar 6.14Pemasangan benang atas...........................................................126Gambar 6.15Pengaturan /penyesuaian tegangan benang................................127Gambar 6.16Penyesuaian Tegangan benang bagian bawah............................127Gambar 6.17Tombol Pengatur setikan mesin high speed.................................128Gambar 6.18Posisi tangan saat memegang stecker.........................................129Gambar 6.19On/Off Switch...............................................................................130Gambar 6.20Kait control untuk setikan mundur................................................130Gambar 6.21Kain untuk ban berjalan dengan mesin high speed......................131Next >